Dandyism and the Met Gala 2025 Theme

Few fashion movements have embodied the intersection of art, identity, and social critique quite like dandyism. A phenomenon that has transcended centuries, dandyism is a statement, a philosophy, and an enduring testament to the power of fashion as a means of self-definition. From the extravagance of 19th-century European dandies to the cultural significance of Black dandyism in contemporary fashion, this movement remains a profound reflection of the era in which it exists. 

I first studied dandyism in a Western Art course at my University, where the professor emphasized the role of using clothing to practice defiance, self-mastery, and carefully curate a persona that speaks louder than words. From the aristocratic salons of 19th-century Europe to the streets of Harlem and the runways of Paris, the dandy has remained a symbol of reinvention.

And now, with the 2025 Met Gala theme, "Superfine: Tailoring Black Style," dandyism is taking center stage once again. When a Met theme first gets released, there is always a bit of confusion and uncertainty about what it really means and what it will attract to the carpet. I have put together a brief history and analysis of dandyism and what I believe the theme may look like.

Historical Background

Dandyism originated in late 18th-century England and France, reaching its height in the early 19th century. The quintessential dandy was the aristocratic or bourgeois man who curated an image of effortless elegance and supreme refinement. It was a performance of selfhood, a deliberate and calculated rejection of both excess and mediocrity. It is in more than what you wear, but where you are seen and how you behave.

A life of leisure has historically promoted dandyism, considering that a man who is but an observer of society, and one with the means to observe from a position of privilege, has the ability to drown himself in elegance. Dandies craft themselves into a fantasy of time and money, yet with complete detachment from these earthly pleasures. To dandies, life is a performance. 

To understand dandyism, we have to start with its original blueprint: Beau Brummell. Back in the early 1800s, when European men were still draped in elaborate embroidery and powdered wigs, Brummell threw it all out the window. Instead, he adopted  perfectly fitted tailoring and crisp white shirts. He believed fashion was about precision. He was both a fashion icon and a disruptor. Brummell turned getting dressed into art, and made sure people knew that true power was in the details. A perfectly tied cravat was his armor, and his way of commanding a room without saying a word.

Dandyism in Art and Literature

During the 19th century, dandyism evolved beyond personal style and became deeply embedded in the aesthetic movement. Writers and artists found inspiration in the dandy’s rejection of societal conventions and his pursuit of beauty for its own sake.

Oscar Wilde is a prime example of the literary dandy. His novel The Picture of Dorian Gray (1890) immortalized the dandy as a character whose devotion to beauty and refinement transcended morality. Wilde himself dressed in extravagant velvet suits, incorporated peacock feathers and silk, and used fashion as a means of artistic expression.

Manet’s famous painting Portrait of Émile Zola (1868) presents the writer as a modern intellectual dandy, dressed in simple yet refined clothing, surrounded by art, literature, and objects of taste. Unlike traditional aristocratic portraiture, Manet’s work emphasizes individuality over status, aligning with the dandy’s personal aesthetic philosophy.

In his masterpiece A Bar at the Folies-Bergère (1882), the men in the background, dressed in tailored suits and top hats, embody Parisian dandyism, effortlessly blending into the social scene while maintaining this sense of detachment.

Dandyism and Social Rebellion

By the 20th century, dandyism had moved beyond its aristocratic origins, finding new meaning in different cultural and racial contexts.

One of the most powerful reinterpretations of dandyism came through Black dandyism, which transformed the movement from a statement of aristocratic nonchalance to an act of cultural resistance.

From the Harlem Renaissance to contemporary fashion, Black dandyism has been an assertion of individuality in the face of racial stereotypes. Style became a way to reclaim dignity and challenge racial stereotypes, when societal respect was denied. It was a way of saying: I define myself—no one else does.

The Met Gala 2025 Theme

As the 2025 Met Gala highlights "Superfine: Tailoring Black Style," dandyism is poised to take center stage once again. It will be a moment for designers, celebrities, and cultural critics to reflect on the enduring power of style as a tool of identity and transformation.

This year’s theme focuses on the role of tailored fashion in shaping Black identity across generations. Inspired by Monica L. Miller’s book, Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity, the accompanying exhibition will explore how fashion has served as both a form of self-expression and resistance.

I am expecting a combination of the velvet suits and statement hats of classic dandyism, with structured shoulders, gender-fluid silhouettes, and tech-inspired afrofuturism. 

The evening will be hosted by Pharrell Williams, Lewis Hamilton, Colman Domingo, A$AP Rocky, Anna Wintour, with LeBron James as the honorary chair. Other members of the committee include Simone Biles, Johnathan Owens, and Sha’Carri Richardson. This list really caught my attention because each individual will bring their unique perspective of style and influence from beyond the fashion industry. 

While we have seen style excellence from each host in their respective industries, from the runway to the racetrack, it is important to recognize just how influential these individuals have been in shaping the larger cultural conversation. 

I am especially intrigued by the addition of Lewis Hamilton. He has recently transformed the perspective of male athletes in high fashion. Not only is he distinguished in his sport of speed and precision, but he has been bringing those same concepts to the runways, becoming an influencer of meticulous design and quality tailoring. The fact that Hamilton is co-chairing the Met Gala 2025 is a testament to how far fashion has come in recognizing the influence of athletes beyond the court, track, or field. His presence on this year’s red carpet will likely reinforce the idea that tailoring is about the ability to command attention with both presence and precision.

Formula 1 is arguably a sport of dandyism as well. The sport has always embodied elegance, luxury, and precision. It is the perfect ecosystem for dandies to thrive.

Today, dandyism has experienced a resurgence, particularly in high fashion and streetwear. Designers such as Thom Browne, Gucci’s Alessandro Michele, and Rick Owens have played with dandy aesthetics, merging historical tailoring with modern silhouettes.

I believe that we will see Thom Browne and Rick Owens’ avant-garde interpretations of classic suiting, and Pharrell’s signature fusion of luxury tailoring with playful twists. And of course, I’m crossing my fingers for plenty of Zendaya moments!

"Superfine: Tailoring Black Style” is a study in how style and fit contribute to self-definition, ingenuity, and quiet rebellion in Black fashion. While details on the event are still scarce, the theme alone has already sparked my curiosity, pushing me to study the fascinating world of the dandy and the transformative power of clothing as a form of conversation.

I will do a more in-depth report when more information is released, but until then, I hope this was the perfect little teaser on this years theme! 

Xoxo,

Annie